People (other Kelmark owners mostly) are always asking me to post
pictures of the way the rear end of the Kelmark works (a stock Kelmark does
not have a flip rear on it). My apologies for the rust and broken exhaust
bits, but I assume this shows how simple the mechanics of it are. The trick
of course is getting the final fitting perfect.
To clarify, a two-legged "T" (like the symbol pi) has been fitted onto the back of the frame. This
mates (via two big simple bolt hinges at the edges of the T) to brackets on a
large metal plate that's attached to the bottom of the trunk — the
beauty of doing it this way is that you can build the hinge assembly, then
drop the rear into place, slide it around it until it's where you want, and then
bolt it onto the hinge plate. A belt keeps the rear from flipping too far,
and hydraulic cylinders provide buffering. In addition, a flange has been built
where the body was cut, and inner fenders have been fabricated.
I would definitely recommend this conversion for all mid-engined kits.
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